Gough Street used to be much quieter. The few daipaidong (small eating stalls) along the street were very popular and noisy, especially at night, but back then, most of the cars parked outside were taxis.

The street is now filled with a cornucopia of dining options — from cheap and cheerful to posh and pricey.

One of the restaurants along this street is called Gingko House.

Before dining there, I thought it was actually a dessert shop because of the name. When I did get a chance to eat there, I learned the serving staff employed are all senior citizens who can only work limited hours each day.

Everyone is very friendly and happy to explain how dishes are prepared and whether it is a personal favorite. It’s rare to find such friendly, accommodating service.

There are two dining areas, one on the ground floor and one upstairs. This place is very popular and showing up without a reservation usually means going off disappointed.

Often fully booked during lunchtime, it offers a set menu that is reasonably priced and popular among office workers. Lunch sets are on average about HK$100 ($13) each person including coffee or tea.

The meats are imported and many of the ingredients are organic. I’m told the owner has an organic vegetable farm.

Cuisine here is supposed to be French with some Italian influences. They have made an effort to present their food nicely on the plate with obvious thought given to the accompanying side dishes. Not everything works in my opinion, but I do like to come here every so often to see what new dishes they have to offer and to support their initiative to employ senior citizens.

On my last visit, it was the oven-baked beef rib with gravy. I like meat on the bone, but I know a lot of people find bones a bit fiddly. The rib was flavorful and not too greasy. It was a bit rich as the meat here does have some fat clinging to it, but not overly so.

The appetizer of organic Caesar salad with smoked salmon and crispy bacon was tasty and fresh.

To finish off the meal, my fellow diners and I shared a couple of the desserts including the dark-chocolate fondant and the deluxe Uncle Gingko dessert (chopped fruit topped with a soft baked meringue top). Both were served warm and were not overly sweet, but our favorite was still the chocolate fondant.

Dinner sets including an appetizer, soup, main course, and fair trade or organic coffee/tea range from HK$370 to HK$500 each person. It’s a good place to go with a small group of friends.

You can contact the writer at sundayed@chinadaily.com.cn.